8:52 AM Take a bus from Oki Hospital
Pack your lunch for the day, put on a pair of comfortable walking shoes and head to the bus stop by the entrance to the Oki Hospital. From there, take a Tsuma line bus bound for Mukōyama.
*Pro tip: before getting off the bus, let the driver know you are travelling onward and ask for a transfer card (noritsugi ken). The phrase to use is Nagu-e ikimasu. Noritsugi ken kudasai.
9:31 AM Arrive at Tsuma Shishō-mae Bus Stop
The bus will drop you off on the main road but on the opposite side of the bus stop shelter.
Feel free to go over there and make use of the waiting area or toilet facilities, but before crossing the street, you might first want to check the selection in the vending machines (on your right) or drop by Yamazaki Shop (further down, past vending machines) for some last-minute snacks.
10:00 AM Take a bus from Tsuma Shisho-mae Bus Stop
Once you are at the bus stop shelter, you are bound to notice it stands on a traffic island between the main road (where the bus dropped you off) and a narrow street.
As 10:00 nears, make yourself visible waiting by the latter, because that is where the community minibus makes a brief stop.
The community bus is less conspicuous than the one you took from Oki Hospital, so be careful not to miss it. Keep an eye on the white van with the mark of Okinoshima Town.
When boarding the community bus, let the driver know where you would like to get off—Kami-nagu e ikimasu is the phrase to use. Also, remember to hand in your transfer card—once you do, your ride will be free of charge.
10:42 AM Arrive at Kami-nagu Bus Stop
The bus stop shelter is across the street from your drop-off spot. Unless you want to use toilet facilities there, you can commit it to the memory and promptly set off in the direction of Dangyō-no-taki Waterfalls. The signage is impossible to miss!
Hike to Dangyō-no-taki Waterfalls
Leaving the bus stop shelter behind, walk along the river through the peaceful townscape of Nagu, then uphill, by clearings in the forest. At one point early on you will pass by a vending machine—your last chance to get a drink until after 1 PM.
At another point, about halfway through your hike, you will see a signboard for the ruins of Kōsan-ji Temple.
According to local legends, Ono-no Takamura, the 9th-century aristocrat and poet, prayed there for a return from his exile to the islands and carved the principal Buddhist image for its altar. Nowadays, visitors can see the remaining stone statues but no original buildings—they were burnt down on the rise of the anti-Buddhist movement in 19th century Japan.
You might want to drop by the temple ruins unless you feel pressed for time.
The torii gate 1.3 km from the Dangyō Shrine opens the last leg of your hike, along a flat forested road. Keep an eye out for tiny Buddhist altars set on your left.
11:40 AM Spend time at Dangyō-no-taki Waterfalls
At long last, you have arrived!
To the car park, that is.
Let yourself catch a breath (toilet facilities are available!), before walking through the iconic torii gate, flanked by towering Japanese cedar trees.
The first waterfall is at the end of the approach, next to another torii gate. The second one is a bit further away, best seen from the spot about halfway up the stairs.
If you wish, you can approach the shrine building at the top, but please, be aware it is not safe to go beyond the zuijinmon gate at the top of the stairs and closer to the waterfall, due to the danger of falling rocks.
Between nature’s beauty, rich local lore and an air of mystery, Dangyō-no-taki waterfalls evoke a sense of wonder. It is only to be expected that amazed visitors may feel reluctant to leave. But while everyone’s walking pace is different and the hike down is less strenuous, it is still strongly advised to leave the waterfalls no later than 12:30 PM.
1:25 PM Take a break at Kami-nagu Bus Stop
That was quite a hike, wasn’t it? Now is a perfect time to take a lunch break. To avoid potentially enticing local birds of prey with your snack, make yourself comfortable on a bench inside the bus stop shelter. Enjoy your meal!
*Even if you decide to skip lunch break to stay by the waterfalls longer, make sure to be back at the bus stop with plenty of time to spare, as the bus often arrives early.
1:54 PM Take a bus from Kami-nagu Bus Stop
No transfer cards this time. Simply board the community bus (it stops across the street from the bus stop shelter!) and let the driver know your next destination. Phrase to use: Yui e ikimasu.
2:04 PM Arrive at Yui Bus Stop
Getting off the community bus by quite an unassuming bus stop shelter, you have officially travelled furthest off the beaten path that you can in Okinoshima Town. Breathe in the sea breeze and relax. You have an hour to leisurely explore the area.
Spend time in Yui
So, what can you do in Yui?
First off, if you are in dire need of a new beverage, kick off your Yui experience with a refreshing drink to the view of the open sea. A vending machine is close by and easy to spot.
There are two shrines in this area. Kuniyoshi Shrine is a throw away from the bus stop, in the direction of the seaside (and the vending machine).
Miho Shrine is a short walk across the bridge, on your right side. Both stand in the shade of curiously shaped pine trees and offer a unique ambiance.
Their buildings and torii gates are visible from the main road, but should you feel at a loss, please refer to the Oki Shrine map or Google Maps app on your phone.
After visiting Miho Shrine, how about a stroll by the fishing port?
You can walk down the road to the Yui Maenosu Intertidal Shore Platform, all the while taking in beautiful coastal views. Can you see how close the Dōzen Islands are?
Then, of course, enjoy the quintessential fishing village flair and unusual townscape of Yui! Wandering the narrow streets, you surely have noticed how homes are hidden behind tall wooden fences. That is to shield their walls from salt and strong western winds. A similar sight can be encountered only in the Kumi area, in the northwestern part of Okinoshima Town.
3:08 PM Take a Bus from Yui Bus Stop
By now, the community bus is surely a familiar sight. Just in case, make it back to the bus stop with a few minutes to spare.
*Pro-tip: Don’t forget to ask for a transfer card! The phrase to use: Oki byōin e ikimasu. Noritsugi ken kudasai.
3:51 PM Change Bus at Tsuma Shisho-mae Bus Stop
Other than a quick dash across the street for a drink from the vending machines, there is not enough time to wander off anywhere. It is best to wait at the side of the main road for a bus back to Oki Hospital. Remember to show your transfer card to the driver—your fee will be reduced.
End of your trip
Back at the Oki Hospital bus stop, your trip comes to an end. Hope you had a great time!
Izabela Raczynska