A True Local Tour Guide Who Knows Chiburijima Island Inside and Out
The “Red Cliff of Chibu”, which is a cliff that stretches for up to 3 kilometres, ranges from 50 to 200 meters in height. As the name suggests, the cliff is a “red wall” with vivid colours, which is rare even around the world.
Chiburijima Island, the smallest inhabited island of the Oki Islands, is where you can enjoy this spectacular scenery, well-suited for this geopark.
Ms. Takegawa was our guide for this visit. After graduating from high school, Ms. Takegawa, who is of Chiburijima-origin, studied art in Kyoto. She then worked in a kimono workshop, working on traditional crafts such as gold leaf processing and fabric dyeing. Furthermore, her desire to live abroad brought her to France, where she attended a language school. After that, Ms. Takegawa returned to Chiburijima Island and is now working as a staff member at the tourism association office and a tour guide. How surprising it is that both guides on this small island, both with unique backgrounds, have ties with France.
Mt. Akahage, where you can enjoy a 360-degree panorama of Chiburijima Island, and Sekiheki (Red Cliff) are both famous sightseeing spots on the island. Since the weather was excellent on the day of the interview, we went on a cruise on the Sekiheki (Red Cliff) Sightseeing Boat. The cruise starts from Kurii Port, and it takes about an hour to go around the island. The best part is being able to see the whole of Red Cliff up close from the boat, which is a sight that cannot be enjoyed from land. Another fun part is being introduced to hidden spots that are not listed in the pamphlets and learning about the interesting stories related to these spots on board.
Putting on the microphone, Ms. Takegawa brought us on a journey.
“Chiburijima Island is famous for its ‘red wall’, but there is also a ‘white wall’. It is a trachyte cliff. Perhaps as a reference to the island’s symbol, Red Cliff, this is also called White Cliff. Overall, it is a white volcanic rock, but the geometric patterns formed by the deposition of iron-containing minerals and the marble-like veins create a beautiful rock face.”
Rock walls that would be easily overlooked without a tour guide are transformed into new tourist attractions through the guide’s detailed explanations. As you would expect from a geopark, valuable rock layers and unique formations are revealed on both sides as the sightseeing boat forwards. Each of the layers is engraved with stories of nature, formed over tens and thousands of years. The tour guide’s explanations help the visitors understand the background more.
↑As the sightseeing boat enters a sea cave, the inside, carved by the rough waves, is revealed.
The most common way to get to Chiburijima Island is by large ferries or smaller inter-island ferries. But if you want to try something different from a ferry ride, the sightseeing cruise is highly recommended. The sightseeing boat will bring you up close to the impressive rock formations, and the mere sensation of being rocked by the waves is interesting.
“This is the site of a landslide that occurred in the past. In 1978, when I was in fourth grade of primary school, heavy rain caused the river to overflow, causing a disaster so severe that houses were washed away. As a result of that deluge of rain, a landslide occurred in this entire area.”
While most island tour guides are relocators from other locations, Ms. Takegawa was born and raised on Chiburijima Island. Other than explanations about the island’s geology, she stands out as a storyteller who weaves the stories on the island, such as daily happenings, local history and events, into the explanations. Her storytelling gives visitors a glimpse into the real life and history of the island that only those who were born and raised there know.
As the sightseeing boat approaches Red Cliff, the climax of the cruise, the vivid colours of the red rocks become more prominent. After the sightseeing boat arrived in front of Red Cliff, the captain turned off the engine, and passengers moved to the deck outside. Ms. Takegawa then gave a detailed explanation of the magnificent beauty of the natural formation.
“Stretching for about 3 kilometres, Red Cliff is characterised by its vivid colours of red, yellow and brown. This phenomenon occurs when magma from a volcanic eruption, still at high temperature, comes into contact with air, oxidizing the iron and turning the majority of it red. The whitish-grey streak running vertically down the red rock is the vent where once magma rose. Beyond that was a crater, from which magma erupted. In other words, we are now looking at a cross-section of a spectacular activity that has taken place inside the Earth.”
Many visitors made reservations for the Red Cliff Sightseeing Boat at sunset hours. Illuminated by the setting sun, the cliff is bathed in a soft orange hue, creating a dramatic and breathtakingly beautiful sight. Just imagining the scene is sufficient to have one mesmerised.
Unfortunately, we weren’t able to witness the wonderful moment in person this time. But Ms. Takegawa showed us some of her photos. In order to see the spectacle, a few conditions must be met: when the sea is calm, and only a few clouds on the horizon. Depending on the timing, you might not be able to see it, but if you come and visit Chiburijima Island, we highly recommend that you give it a try.
Ms. Takegawa returned to her hometown 22 years ago.
“When I was a child, I thought this was ‘a place with nothing’. It was quiet, and I often felt lonely, so deep in my heart I always had the thought that I would ‘definitely leave this island’. So when I graduated from high school and was able to go to Kyoto, I was overjoyed. Being able to go to concerts by my favourite artists, visit amusement parks, watch movies in the cinema, and I also tried a lot of things that I couldn’t do on the island. But after a while, I ended up getting used to it.”
Feeling dissatisfied with her daily life, Ms. Takegawa travelled to Paris, France, a place she had longed to visit. She was excited about the new challenges brought by art and language acquisition, and life in a foreign country. However, following the passing of her mother, she decided to return to her hometown. This island, her hometown that she left behind for a long time, was supposed to be a place where she had previously felt “nothingness”. Yet, Ms. Takegawa felt a strange sense of relief; just like a ship returning quietly to her home port after a long voyage. It was also the first time, after living in the city, that she understood the value of her hometown.
Perhaps, the “loneliness” that she previously felt was in fact the luxury of “tranquillity”. With this in mind, after running her late mother’s guesthouse for several years, she started working for the tourism association and began her career as a tour guide.
“There were hardly any tour guides on the island. I thought that unless someone took up the position, the charm of the island would not be conveyed, so I became a tour guide. At that time, I was the only one, and sometimes I received international visitors in French and English. Looking back now, I think I did a really good job.”
Now, David, the French tour guide of the team, is in charge of receiving visitors from overseas.
“Thanks to David, we now share the role and can conduct tours more efficiently,” Ms. Takegawa smiled.
“When I show my customers around as a guide, I don’t just take them around the famous spots on the island. I also talk about local folklore and share my firsthand accounts. For example, how the fishermen used to catch fish, the problems that the island is now facing, stories that have been passed down by generations, and the culture that has been cherished here. By knowing more about the background, I hope our visitors will be able to feel a deeper connection with the island. Also, as a geopark, there are still many to be discovered and enjoyed. I want to add more to what I can share or talk about in the future.”
Ms. Takegawa has not only deepened her knowledge of the geopark. She has also built her unique style by exploring what customers are looking for, and what kinds of things, such as sightseeing spots and activities, would be most appealing. Ms. Takegawa picked up the role of being a tour guide on Chiburijima Island almost from scratch; other than many trials and errors, there were a lot of hardships along the way.
But Ms. Takegawa is not only focusing on her own work; she also believes it is necessary to train the next generation of tour guides.
“There are only a few tour guides. I want to be able to provide support, so more people can join the field. This year the geopark organised a training course, and we are expecting two or three new tour guides to join the field. I hope to be able to pass on the charm of the island and important knowledge to the next generation.”
Behind these efforts lies the practical issue of a shortage of torchbearers for the tourism industry. Recently, in addition to sightseeing tour guides, marine activities such as SUP (stand-up paddleboarding) and sea kayaking tours have become popular, and there seems to be a shortage of specialists in this field.
“More and more guests are coming to enjoy hands-on activities rather than just visiting sightseeing spots. To meet their expectations, there is an urgent need for activity tour guides in that field,” Ms. Takegawa points out.
Playing the roles of a staff member of the tourism association and a tour guide, the future of the island lies before her eyes.
The Mesmerising Sunset Sea Overlooking Kanjima Island
Head east on Prefectural Route 332 Chiburijima Line, pass Shijumagari Pass, which is on the border between Tataku area and Usuge area, and then go down the road for about 100 – 200m towards Usuge area. You will find a quiet, unnamed place. The view there gives a sense of openness; its beauty captivates you no matter how many times you visit.
The autumn sunsets are especially beautiful. I love the way the horizon turns crimson red just after the sun sets, and then the colour of the sky gradually changes towards the dark colour of the night sky. For me, it is a moment where I feel connected with the universe, and there is an indescribable feeling.